I’ve been working for some time on a kind of primer on “getting to know fragrance notes” (or at least, what little I know on the subject). I kept stumbling over the need to debunk some of the common fallacies about the “lists of notes” that are associated with any given fragrance, and I finally gave up and decided to tackle that topic first. Everything below can be neatly summed up as follows: not everything in a fragrance is necessarily in the list of notes, and not everything in the list of notes is necessarily in the fragrance. There, now I’ve saved you the trouble of further reading. What are lists of fragrance notes, and where do they come from The lists of fragrance notes you see here and there on the internet are usually provided by the public relations department of the perfume house in question. They are meant to give some general idea of what the fragrance “contains”, or at least, what the PR department thinks it smells like (or perhaps more accurately, what they think describes it most alluringly to potential customers), but that is all. They aren’t recipes, and they aren’t complete. Sometimes they are very short and sweet. For example, the recently released Ungaro by Ungaro lists only 3 notes: jasmine, saffron and amber. In contrast, Shiseido’s recently re-launched Zen fragrance lists 20: grapefruit, bergamot, peach, pineapple, blue rose, freesia, gardenia, red apple, violet, lily of the valley, hyacinth, rose, lotus flower, patchouli, cedar, musk, white musk, amber, incense and marine plant. There is no reason whatsoever to think that Zen actually contains more separate ingredients than Ungaro. It might, but then again, it might not. Perhaps both fragrances contain exactly 101 “ingredients”. As consumers, we will never know (and speaking for myself, I couldn’t care less). Moreover, the “list” might get tweaked between the time it is first announced and the time you read it on a department store website even if the juice itself hasn’t changed in the interim. Or, the PR department might give one list to the sales associates in the stores, another list to the press. This leads to many misunderstandings. From time to time, you’ll see a post on a fragrance forum saying “Site X lists these notes for Perfume Y, Site Z lists these other notes, which is correct?” The best answer is neither, either, both. That is, neither is a complete list, either might be a better representation of what the scent “has in it”. Take your pick, or combine them, it doesn’t much matter. Correspondingly, when you know a fragrance has been reformulated and you see a “new” list of notes, the difference between the old list and the new list may not have anything to do with how the fragrance has actually changed. It may simply reflect changes in how the PR department wants the fragrance to be represented to the public. It is not likely, after all, that you will be told that the expensive Grasse jasmine in the original has been replaced with a cheaper jasmine from elsewhere or that part or all of it has been replaced by an even cheaper synthetic jasmine. Nor will they alarm you by informing you that the synthetic musk in the original, which is now banned, has been replaced with something safer. Why the list of notes doesn’t matter First of all, as we’ve already alluded to above, they don’t tell you everything that is in the juice. Another common forum post goes “I hate aldehydes, what fragrances don’t have any aldehydes?” Then people list all the scents that don’t have “aldehydes” listed in the notes. This is not how it works. There are all kinds of fragrances with aldehydes that don’t list aldehydes as a note (and, there is more than one kind of aldehyde — you might like one and not the other, and they might only bother you in high doses). There are also many fragrances where the aldehyde is “listed” as the note it is meant to mimic, for instance, if you see “peach” in the list of notes, what you might be smelling as “peach” could be an aldehyde. Even if a note is listed, you don’t know what specific aroma chemical was used for that note. So, for instance, I also see posts that say “Musk always turns sour on me, what fragrances don’t have musk?” (and then, as you can guess, people list fragrances that don’t have “musk” in the notes). Two important points: fragrances without any synthetic musk are rare, and there are many different aroma chemicals meant to mimic “musk”. There are woody musks, fruity musks, powdery musks, clean musks, “metallic” musks…the list goes on and on. One fragrance might